Wednesday, April 29, 2020

Keep Calm and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask

Article by Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE Eleonora de Gray. Read Full version of the article HERE.

Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask
Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask

Are there standards for production of protective face masks?


Yes, there are standards, and it is very important to follow them. The standards are very strict, so the tiny virus can’t go trough. That is important to understand and specially when we all start to make masks ourselves. And it explains why 1 layer of cotton mask – doesn’t do anything, doesn’t serve to anything, and basically only give false feeling of protection. Let’s start with description of the materials from which surgical masks and N95 made of:

Surgical masks are made from “melt-blown, non-woven fabric”. They have a 3-layer structure comprising materials like:
Waterproof non-woven layer (front)
Microfiber melt-blown non-woven fabric as filter (middle) – VERY IMPORTANT
Ordinary non-woven fabric (back)


“Melt-blown” fabrics are not the woven or knitted structures in, like t-shirts and jeans for example, they are more like paper-mache. The complex layering and overlapping of these thin plastic filaments creates a thicket-like maze that can trap the airborne particles. The thin plastic filaments in disposable protective face masks are a polymer called polypropylene. Polypropylene has two great properties for repelling viruses: it is negatively charged, and it is water-repellent. Now, viruses need water to remain viable, and are also negatively charged. And…. negative repels negative. Negatively-charged polypropylene molecule will repel the negatively-charged virus, and because polypropylene also repels water, the virus is denied the moisture it needs to be viable. Ta-da!!!

Three separate types of polypropylene negatively-charged fabrics in the surgical face mask: a breathable type for next to mouth, a microfiber filtering type in the middle (filter), and a barrier type on the side facing the world.



3 layers surgical face mask
3 layers surgical face mask

N95 medical mask is almost the same as surgical mask but has more layers and fit tightly to the face. But the layers and principals are the same. Polyester also repels water, and is also negatively charged – just not as negative as polypropylene. That is why 1 layer of cotton, which has huge holes in relation to the size of virus, is useless. This kind of mask simply let virus go trough the cotton without any problem, as there’s no mask at all.

And now for the tricky part – the fabrics. There are all kinds of different fabrics, knits, cottons, polyesters, microfibers. What to choose? There are 2 organizations I know who provided all manufacturers and fashion designers with requirements of the fabrics for the masks for hospitals and for public. In USA all standards certified by The Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In France all standards certified by Association Française de Normalisation (AFNOR). Today they have million downloads from all over Europe standards guides to manufacturers and generally to everyone. Both these associations are on the same page.

AFNOR offers fabric guide to all public, which describes the quality of many fabrics which we can find and use. Do not hesitate – USE IT, CONSIDER IT AS ULTIMATE GUIDE !!! Quality of every fabric is described according to how airborne particles (virus included) can go trough or not, what fabric can be used as a barrier or filter. Today French government engaged several textile manufactures to produce protective masks for public according to AFNOR guide.

So let’s summer up and go according to AFNOR guide. The protective mask we can produce ourselves should contain several layers. Cotton can be used for front and back. And the most important middle layer is….

Microfiber Non-Woven Fabric as filter in face mask is THE SECRET WEAPON AGAINST VIRUS.


How to make Protective Mask Yourself


In another words the protective mask’s secret weapon lies in the middle layer. We can find this fabric in any supermarket. These fabrics we use for the napkins, for cleaning window and glasses “non-woven cloth”. It is very important to know that most air filtration are made of non-woven microfibers. Non-woven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fibre (short) and long fibres (continuous long), bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in the textile manufacturing industry to denote fabrics, such as felt, for example, which are neither woven nor knitted.

Why we use this microfiber non-woven fabrics for cleaning? Simply because microfiber textiles designed for cleaning on a microscopic scale. Why? Because they negatively-charged, and therefore this fabric keeps all dust and microbes on them. According to tests using microfiber materials to clean a surface leads to reducing the number of bacteria by 99%, whereas a conventional cleaning material reduces this number only by 33%.

So when it comes to the protective mask it is a vital importance to use this microfiber non-woven fabric as a filter. The one we can buy on the supermarkets for cleaning is close enough to the microfiber fabric used for medical masks. Another trick worth mentioning. As I already mentioned this microfiber fabric is negatively-charged, the cotton on another hand is positively-charged, as it made with natural materials.

Understanding - 3 layers protective mask
Understanding - 3 layers protective mask
And guess what happens when negatively-charged and positively-charged materials are interacting with each other when they put together in the mask? They are creating a electromagnetic field, which is for certain stops virus for getting to you. The virus particles glues to the microfiber filter and stays there. This is the secret of the filter.

So to simplify the protective face mask you are going to make yourself should have 3 layers. 2 cotton layers and in the middle as filter microfiber non-woven fabric.

How to make protective face mask yourself


If you choose thin microfiber non-woven material like table napkin for example, the mask can’t be washed and can’t be reused. And another if you can’t find non-woven microfiber material buy woven microfiber material. It won’t be that effective, but it’ll still be protective, as this material will still be negatively-charged and will create electromagnetic field when interacting with cotton. Also don’t buy non-woven materials where are some products in them, or made of some glass particles like many bags for vacuum cleaners. The best choice would be fabrics for cleaning windows. Fleece (it’s also non-woven polyester) will do too BUT is much less effective, as it not that strong, so negative field won’t be that powerful, and as a result electromagnetic field will be not that strong.

Let’s say non-woven microfiber cloth as filter will give 80-90% of protection, woven microfiber cloth will give 70% of protection, fleece will give 60% of protection.

For more better performance and more sewing experience I give couple of images from AFNOR.

Protective Mask Design

Protective Mask Design

Protective Mask Design

Wednesday, March 11, 2020

Best of Paris Fashion Week

Prêt-à-porter Best of Paris Fashion Week Automne-Hiver 2020-2021. La semaine de la mode parisienne malgré de nombreuses complications a montré des collections spectaculaires. La tendance proposée par Paris est venue en couleur, pour certains, et en formes géométriques. Les chemises et pantalons à l'aspect Mondrian sont le «nouveau noir».


Meilleurs looks par ordre alphabétique.

Agnes B Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Agnes B Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexander McQueen Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexander McQueen Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Oh, FYI, it is not a Hermes what all of us remember from 1990s – it’s new Balmain. Don’t ask…. Yes, please do! Read more about what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain here.

Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Celine Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Celine Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Duds collection Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Duds collection Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chloe Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chloe Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Comme des Garcons Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Comme des Garcons Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Givenchy Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Givenchy Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
This is Hermes collection for new Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season. This collection is a tribute to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Read the special story here.

Hermes Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Hermes Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lacoste Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lacoste Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lanvin Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lanvin Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Leonard Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Leonard Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Margiela Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Margiela Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Marine Serre Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Marine Serre Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Mugler Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Mugler Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Off-White Fall Winter 2020-2021 Arcteryx and Obelix – Virgil Abloh by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Off-White Fall Winter 2020-2021 Arcteryx and Obelix – Virgil Abloh by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Paco Rabanne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Paco Rabanne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Rick Owens Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Rick Owens Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Saint Laurent Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Saint Laurent Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Stella McCartney Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stella McCartney Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Thom Browne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Valentino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Viktor&Rolf Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Viktor&Rolf Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Zuhair Murad Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Zuhair Murad Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020 – Delvaux, Ermenegildo Zegna, Yeezy by Kanye West, Madonna Madam X pop-up store, Schiaparelli.


Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
The most original and worth seeing collections, newest trends of Paris Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season can be seen here.

Sunday, March 8, 2020

RUNWAY MAGAZINE News


Sunday, September 15, 2019

NYFW Spring Summer 2020

New York Fashion Week Spring Summer 2020 season was more exciting than other fashion weeks for the last couple of years. See the best looks, and the new trends proposed to New York by designers from all over the world.

Ralph Lauren became the hit of the season and the most glamorous show in New York. Even Ralph Lauren showed collection for this Fall-Winter 2019-2020 without following the season, it didn’t really matter.

Ralph Lauren Fall 2019 New York – Cate Blanchett – performance Janelle Monae – RUNWAY MAGAZINE Collections. Photo: Courtesy Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren Fall 2019 New York – Cate Blanchett – performance Janelle Monae – RUNWAY MAGAZINE Collections. Photo: Courtesy Ralph Lauren
Rodarte showed for Spring Summer 2020 season evening gown collection in style of Marie Antoinette for everyone. And of course Kirsten Dunst was starring. This collection presented not only by models, but also by dancer, and by the “girls next door”.

Rodarte Spring Summer 2020 New York. Kirsten Dunst. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Courtesy Rodarte
Rodarte Spring Summer 2020 New York. Kirsten Dunst. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Courtesy Rodarte

Fashion school Parsons MFA ( graduated Master of Fine Arts) showed great crafts and creativity they about bring into the world of fashion.

Parsons MFA (Masters of Fine Arts) Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Courtesy Parsons
Parsons MFA (Masters of Fine Arts) Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Courtesy Parsons
Like always Jeremy Scott brought lots and lots of colors to New York Fashion Week for Spring Summer 2020 season.

Jeremy Scott Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo RUNWAY: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com, Photo DETAILS: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Jeremy Scott Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo RUNWAY: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com, Photo DETAILS: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Another glamorous collection by Prabal Gurung for Spring Summer 2020 season.

Prabal Gurung Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Prabal Gurung Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Brandon Maxwell showed very elegant pieces from evening wear to street wear.

Brandon Maxwell Spring Summer 2020 New York. Bella Hadid. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Brandon Maxwell Spring Summer 2020 New York. Bella Hadid. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Another favorite collection of this season Tory Burch Spring Summer 2020 show.

Tory Burch Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Tory Burch Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Anna Sui for Spring Summer 2020  season used colors, little details in quiet elegant and creative way, so the collection didn’t reminded million others creating in the simplified style of 50s.

Anna Sui Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Anna Sui Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Mister President… Mister New President of CFDA – Council of Fashion Designers of America in New York, Tom Ford, the fashion designer, film director, screenwriter, and film producer is still keeping his hand on the console, and leading the Enterprise, and boldly go where no man has gone before. That’s in short about Tom Ford Spring Summer 2020 collection presented yesterday in New York.

Tom Ford Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Tom Ford Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Zimmermann for Spring Summer 2020 season “snowflaked” us all with absolutely fantastic pieces.

Zimmermann Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Zimmermann Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Carolina Herrera Spring Summer 2020 spectacular “flower-power” collection.

Carolina Herrera Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Carolina Herrera Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Absolutely outstanding, out of the box, and actually out of traditional way collection, shown by The Blonds for Spring Summer 2020 season in Broadway theater for the spectacle Moulin Rouge.

The Blonds Spring Summer 2020 and Moulin Rouge on Broadway. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photos: Courtesy of The Blonds
The Blonds Spring Summer 2020 and Moulin Rouge on Broadway. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photos: Courtesy of The Blonds
Top hats, another wink to 50s, Sally LaPointe Spring Summer 2020.

Sally LaPointe Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Sally LaPointe Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Michael Kors Spring Summer 2020 New York Fashion Week.

Michael Kors Spring Summer 2020 New York. Bella Hadid. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo Runway: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com, Photo Close Up: Alessandro Viero / Gorunway.com
Michael Kors Spring Summer 2020 New York. Bella Hadid. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo Runway: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com, Photo Close Up: Alessandro Viero / Gorunway.com
And last but least Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2020 collection : funny, glamorous and refine.

Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2020 New York. RUNWAY MAGAZINE ® Collections. Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
See all designers and great looks for New York Fashion Week Spring Summer 2020 here.